Street Bob Harley Davidson Wheels
Wheels, and the hardware that fits them
Complete wheels are the bulk of what's on this page, cast and laced, in the factory style families, for sale at 10% off RRP with free UK delivery available. Around them sits everything a fitting job actually needs: axle installation kits, bearings, ABS wheel-speed sensors and brackets, spacers, balance weights, hub covers, and a wheel brush and cleaner for keeping the finish. Two SKUs, 23971-03B and 24100021, are flywheel assemblies, an engine part named after the crankshaft, not the road wheel, and they've landed here on the word alone. 50300295 and 50300097 are Freewheeler luggage racks, and 58900099BYM is a front wheel fender. None of the three is a wheel, and if a search brought you here looking for one of them, the part number is still right even though the rest of this page isn't about it.
A style name doesn't cover the whole fitment
Enforcer, Prodigy, Roulette, Tomahawk, Turbine, Fugitive, Seismic, Agitator, Typhoon, Impeller, Knockout and Annihilator are all genuine Harley-Davidson wheel names. Each one is a separate front listing and a separate rear listing, usually at its own diameter. 40900622 is an 18 in. Turbine rear; 43300640 is the matching 19 in. Turbine front, and the two don't swap for each other. Some families run to more than one diameter as well, so the name on its own only gets you halfway there. Finish, gloss black, chrome, gold or contrast-cut, is a separate decision again and doesn't change what actually bolts on.
ABS and axle diameter decide the small parts, not preference
Axle installation kits come split by axle diameter first: 3/4 in., 1 in. and 25mm each have their own kit. Then they split again by ABS. 41454-08B and 42400010A are 25mm ABS front kits; 43848-08A is a plain 1 in. front kit, and they are not the same part however similar the box looks. That split exists because an ABS bike reads wheel speed off the bearing itself, so it needs an ABS bearing and an ABS-specific kit, not the standard version. 9276B is stocked specifically as a non-ABS bearing for that reason. Fit the wrong one and the usual result reported is an ABS warning light and a wheel-speed fault code, cleared once the correct part goes in. Get the axle size and the ABS spec right and a straight, like-for-like wheel replacement doesn't need anything beyond the wheel and its own kit. Move to a different wheel style or a bigger diameter than the bike left the factory with, and the list gets longer: a different axle, spacers cut to a new width, and on some swaps a different brake caliper, because the rotor size changes too. That's a custom job, worth checking against your own bike before ordering, not assuming a new wheel will simply sit where the old one did.
What an MOT tester actually checks on a wheel
The DVSA's MOT inspection manual for motorcycles, updated 1 April 2026, sets out the wheel checks directly. A tester rocks the wheel by hand for play in the bearing and spins it to listen for roughness, and a loose or missing wheel nut, bolt or stud on a single-fixing wheel fails as Dangerous on the spot. Rim distortion has numbers behind it too: up to 4mm of lateral run-out is allowed on a steel rim and 2mm on aluminium, with eccentricity capped at 3mm on either, and a crack, weld defect or distortion bad enough to affect handling fails Dangerous rather than Major. Spokes are checked for missing, cracked, loose, bent or corroded, which is the same fault most riders find for themselves long before the test comes round.
Corrosion on spoke wheels doesn't come back with a polish
Laced wheels carry a thin plating over the spoke, and once that's broken, by weather, by salt or by polishing it off, the bare metal underneath starts rusting and keeps going. Riders in the US and the UK report the same fix and the same outcome independently: wire wool and metal polish shift the surface rust, and it's back within days, because the layer that was holding it off is what just got polished away. Past that point, a respoke or a new wheel is what's left, not a better polish. A British winter makes it worse specifically, since road salt lowers the freezing point of water on the road and keeps it liquid against the metal for longer, and a cold rinse after a wet, gritted ride spreads it less than a warm one does.
Wheel bearings and spoke tension are jobs, not five-minute checks
A spoke that's badly loose shows up if you tap it and listen for a dead thud instead of a ping, but that only catches the obvious ones. Truing a laced wheel properly again needs a stand with a dial indicator, not a torque wrench, because even a correctly trued wheel can show a different reading spoke to spoke. It's a specialist job. Wheel bearings are sealed and can't be repacked or serviced, and how long one lasts varies hugely between riders and how the bike's used. Wet, gritty winter miles wear on them faster than dry summer ones, so we won't put a mileage figure on it that wouldn't hold true for your bike anyway.
Before you order
Not every laced wheel is built the same way underneath. Some factory laced wheels are stamped and sealed to run tubeless tyres, others are the older tube-type design, and there's no way to tell which from a photograph. Check it against your own bike before assuming, especially if you're changing tyres at the same time, since getting it wrong is a tyre-mounting problem, not a wheel one. If a listing here doesn't say which axle or ABS spec it's built for, or you're moving to a wheel style the bike didn't leave the factory with, ring the parts desk in Leeds before ordering instead of guessing from the diameter alone. The rest of the genuine range, tyres included, is in our Harley-Davidson parts range, and tyre-specific fitment questions are best put to the parts desk directly.